DIY- Industrial Chic Lighting Fixture

Back in February- yes, I’ve been sitting on this post for awhile- we churned out a pretty cool DIY project that I had my heart set on since choosing an Industrial Chic scheme for our Mancave project.  I love how it turned out and I’m excited to show you how to create one, too!

Industrial Light Fixture via AWellDressedLife

Like many of our home improvement projects, this one started out as an idea in my head- which grew into a sketch on paper (mainly so I could more adequately explain the inner workings of my brain to my not-always-so-enthusiastically-supportive ‘Handyband’ [handyman/husband]).  I wanted a statement lighting piece- since it’s hanging over the longest sectional on the planet- {seriously! It’s over 120″ long}- in hopes of making the sofa appear more anchored and intentional.

And, since this is in our bonus room with partially slanted ceilings, I wanted to play up on the slant instead of allowing it to run the show.  So, in lieu of attaching the light bar to the wall, we drilled right into the ceiling (nerves of steel!).  This raised the feel of that slanted portion and also allowed for longer pendant cords.


I need to point out that this project could be done two ways- hardwired and plug-in.  I chose the plug-in route for saving time and money.  This tutorial is for the plug-in method.

Supplies Needed:

*Depending on the size of light bar you’re creating, the piping items will vary

Pipe- Long Runs (we used 2)

Floor Flanges (we used 3- 1 on each end and 1 in the center)

Nipples (for returns to the ceiling, 3)

90 degree Elbows (2)

Sekond Cord Sets (Ikea, 7)

Ottava Light (Ikea)

Assortment of Metal and Cage Shades (Lowe’s- I used thesethese and these)

Power strip (with enough plugs for the amount of pendants you have)

Zip ties

Spray Paint (optional)

Light Bulbs (Lowe’s- I chose these)


We started out by deciding how long we wanted the lighting bar to be- again, wanting it to be significant enough to anchor the sofa beneath it.  I went with 60 some odd inches, 1/2 the length of the sofa, and then found the center above it.  (That center mark will be where we cut into the wall to feed the cords- but we’ll get to that in a bit.)

Since galvanized pipe is only available “off the shelf” in certain lengths, we made it easier on ourselves by butting up two long runs with a T flange (that will be anchored into the ceiling at the center point).

pipe segments

After spray painting all of the piping pieces, we laid them all out on the floor and assembled them.  I used Rust-Oleum in Soft Iron Flat. Then, with the help of another set of hands, the fully assembled piece was held up to the ceiling while I marked the holes for the floor flanges.

Holes were drilled and anchors where installed. Notice the vacuum attachment used while drilling- HUGE mess saver! holes drilled

hung pipe

Once the bar was hung, we cut through the planked wall and into the attic space on the other side, creating an entry point for all of the cording (more on the technical stuff in a bit).


Now it was time for me to get busy wrapping the excess cording of the light kits around the piping bar.  There’s really no right or wrong way of doing this, I suppose.  I just wrapped until I liked the appearance- you just need to ensure you leave enough loose ‘tail’ for it to reach the center, through the wall opening and plug into the power strip.cord wrapping details

I started on the far left end, wrapping pendant number 1 first.  When I got it hanging at the length I wanted- and the excess cord looking the way I liked- I ran the tail along the backside of the bar and zip tied it into place (just temporary until I get #2 started- I cut them off when finished).  I started wrapping #2 around the bar and tail of #1.  Once I had it at the varied height that looked right to me, I did the same zip tie method and moved onto #3.

After #3, I skipped the center pendant (#4) and moved straight to the opposite end, continuing with pendant #7, and working my way backward towards the middle.  Once all 6 of the side pendants were finished, I started hanging the center light.  I worked in this order so that the center cord would be used to wrap around all 6 other cords and secure them to the bar neatly.  Once finished, I fed each cord- one by one- through a wall plate (painted to match the plank wall) and then into the hole while the hubs was pulling from the attic side.

He went one step further and changed out the light switch on the room side, too and wired it up so that the one switch will control the power strip on the attic side (so it acts just like a hardwired lighting fixture- more about that below). 


One thing I really wanted in this design was for my center pendant to be beefier than the others with lightweight shades.  I wasn’t able to find one (that I was willing to pay the big money for), so I flipped when I came across this Ottava light while shopping at Ikea (only $34.99!)!  The caveat is that it’s a true lighting fixture meant to be hardwired.  No worries, though!  Just dig the guts out and run a light kit through it!  It now appears just like the other pendants and no one is the wiser.

Just know that in order to get the electrical plug through the top part of an Ottava, you’ll need to use wire snips and it may not leave the pretties metal behind.  This wasn’t a big deal for me as mine is hung high and no one will ever see the top.  Just FYI.


Ok, now this is were it gets technical…

Next to the attic access door, the hubs altered the wiring of the existing single light switch in order to create a dual switch.  This gives us the ability to turn the light bar on and off as if it were hardwired.


On the attic side, we hung a 6-plug* power strip on the wall next to where we cut into it through the planks, and plugged it into a new outlet he ran from the new dual switch on the other side.  Luckily, my husband has been running electrical work for years, but if you’re not familiar with it, I’d recommend hiring a professional.

details of attic side wiring*I wasn’t able to find an 8-plug power strip so I opted for a 6-plug.  Obviously, with 7 pendants, this left me with one cord short so it earned it’s own spot on the new receptacle alongside the power strip plug (see the white and black cords in diagram 3 above) 

Further details…

  • In deciding the length of each pendant, make sure you double and triple check what it will be like while sitting underneath- you definitely don’t want anyone banging their heads while finding their seat.


  • Also, I went with Edison-style bulbs in Amber to continue with the industrial-chic vibe in this room- they’re super cool IMO and give a nice warm glow.  PS- I found them in the pendant/shade aisle of Lowe’s- not in the light bulb aisle as I would have assumed.
  • The cage shades are originally a ‘French Bronze’ color so I spray painted them with Rust-Oleum Antique Nickle Flat.


More reveals of the Bonus Room/Mancave coming soon!

Kitchen Table GlamOver

In my transition from Hollywood Regency to Rustic Glam, I wanted a bleached hardy wood pedestal table for our eat in kitchen. I chose the inexpensive Blanca from World Market (so when our toddler destroys it over time, my heart won’t be quite as broken!)

While I love the design + even the color, I was hesitant to let it replace my high gloss, glass top luxe one- that I still totally adore.
I decided to take what I loved about the table’s design + add the touch of glam that I felt it was missing- for my home, anyways.

In walks Martha!

A coat of her Precious Metals in Bone + this table would be worthy of even the fanciest candlelit mac’n cheese dinners!

From start to finish, the whole project took under an hour. Simply brush on with a fine bristle brush- working it into the grain, + rub over with a soft, color fast, DRY rag. Make sure to work in small areas, as once it gets tacky, the rag will leave swipe marks. Let dry for a few hours + voila!

It added a subtle, iridescent lustre to the otherwise dull wood. When the sun shines in from the patio doors, it shines!


What ‘glamovers’ have you made?!

Our Great Room Reno

Before we moved a single item in, we went to work ripping stuff OUT.

To start, the ivory carpet had to go- in this room and in our master bedroom (right off of the great room).

Before 2

Before 1

We matched up the existing hardwoods and ran them the opposite direction to break the space up a bit.  We also chose to add a decorative border in Brazilian Cherry to make it pop.


floorsNext, we chose to remove the oddly located gas fireplace and built a floor to ceiling stone one on the opposite wall- a much better place for it.

Removal 1

Removal 2


The husband, with supervision of a master carpenter [aka my dad], then began building to new fireplace across the room.  Materials included lumber, plywood, metal lathing and the existing gas insert.

Build 3


Build 2



They sized up the gas insert as well as our surround sound speaker and cut the plywood according to provide a built-in look.

Build 5

We opted to hire a local professional mason to apply the stone facade.  It took 2 1/2 days and cost apprx $800 more to do so, but we knew that it would be done correctly [and much quicker].  It was worth it!

The walls were painted a dark shade of neutral grey called Creek Bend by Behr.

behr – creek bend


To see the before and afters, check out my Room Tour post!



Paneled Wall Tutorial

Because the walls were already painted gray and the furniture I chose was gray as well, I needed to do something to the wall behind the crib to make it stand out.

We chose to keep it neutral by painting it white, but added trim pieces to add interest.



To start, draw your idea out on paper.  You will refer back to this countless times throughout the project!

Since the trim pieces didn’t come long enough to stretch the length of our wall, we had to piece them together.  If you find yourself in the same situation, make sure you miter these ends for cleaner seems.

put your plan on paper first!

put your plan on paper first!

Tip:  It’s always a good idea to let your wood warm up to your room temperature for a day or two to avoid warping and shrinking.

White Wall 1

Cut your trim to the lengths needed.

Paint your background wall the color that you choose as well as the boards before you begin hanging them (including the ends of the boards).

Start at the bottom of the wall and work your way up so that the boards have something to support their weight as you work.

Run a bead of liquid nails on each trim piece and place on wall.  Make sure you check each with a level as you go, then hit each of them with your nail gun at the stud points for added security.

White Wall 3

Once you have all of the boards attached, go back and caulk the seems so they blend in the background wall.  This really gives it a finished look versus seeing the dark lines around each trim piece.

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Striped Nursery Wall Tutorial

To create the striped wall behind the changing table, we started off by measuring how tall we wanted each stripe.  Then we masked off and painted.  We decided to add trim to each side to finish it off, and to tie into the trim work we did behind the crib.

tape off each stripe for painting

tape off each stripe for painting

Tip:  I wrote the color on small pieces of tape and stuck them next to each stripe to keep me straight when painting.

paint one color at a time, let dry + go onto the next

paint one color at a time, let dry + go onto the next

i suggest using Frog Tape- it provides the cleanest lines when painting stripes!

i suggest using Frog Tape- it provides the cleanest lines when painting stripes!

I always buy pre-painted trim.  It will run you a few dollars more per piece, but it’s totally worth it for the time you save in painting.  We ran a bead of liquid nails on each strip then applied to the wall.  The Mr. then hit each one with the nail gun a few times to ensure adhesion.  Fill in the nail holes and caulk around both sides and you’re done!



Decorate + enjoy!  Little Mr. just loves staring up at this wall during changes.  It’s his favorite thing to look at in his room 🙂



For tutorial on how to make the large wooden “C”, click here.

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